On the Loose
Thursday, November 22, 2007
Blogging

I started blogging for the Colobus Trust blog today, and will probably be doing that more often, so check it out if you're interested.

I'm in a bit of a bad mood today, I think it may be lack of sleep taking its toll, as I haven't been able to sleep past 6am since my second week here, regardless of what time I go to bed. I can no longer nap in the afternoon either, because it's just way, way too hot. I actually managed to doze for a half hour this afternoon, but woke up drenched in sweat and badly in need of a shower. On top of that I also put in a fresh pair of Night & Day contacts and it feels like my eyes don't like them. They are sticky and/or dry all the time and it is gross.

Yesterday was a pretty productive day though, I went to Mombasa and spoke to various hotel managers about the kite surfing competition on Dec. 28-29, our fundraising event. I think it went pretty well and I've been told I did a good job. Then we went out in Mombasa at this place called Pirates but we were the only people there. I am now tired and decided I'm not going out this weekend. I have to work on Sunday anyway. On that note I think I'm going to go and have another nap.


posted by iz on Thursday, November 22, 2007   4 comments
Monday, November 19, 2007
Animals (and people)

Random things happen to me sometimes. This week a monkey stole my bikini bottom. I was very upset. It was a really nice bikini, and the only bikini I brought. I had to buy another one, and I think I bought the only wearable bikini in Diani, as they all seem to be super 80s style here, ultra high-cut. But anyway, these cheeky sykes monkeys have been seen stealing food and grabbing clothes before and I’m very mad at them. I’ve been trying to blow my whistle at them but they always run off before I can get to it.

Nala the cat has also been very cheeky lately, biting hard and trying to eat my toes when I sleep. She uses her legs to get a better grip and really try to pull chunks off. When she’s not doing that, she still thinks she’s a kitten and tries to suckle on elbows.

We also have a baby vervet on quarantine at the moment called Merlin who will be introduced to the rest of the group in a bit. It’s just so cute to see this super tiny but very human-like little hands hold on to your fingers as if they were tree trunks. Then there are the colobus babies -- on a colobus check this week there were 4 infants! They are even cuter than Merlin. Colobus babies are very elusive, especially the white ones, they are all white until about 3 months old, then they turn black. I saw white babies. They were fantastically cute.

Last week we had an injured colobus call and it was my first time going on a call where the monkey was still alive. She had been electrocuted and was down for a while, but seemed well enough that we didn't have to bring her back. Since I arrived there have been a few electrocutions and also dog attack deaths, so it was good to see at least one actually survive.

Orit unfortunately left the Trust this morning, but will spend a few days in Mombasa, which means we’ll go out in Mombasa one of these nights. Right now I am about to start on my colobridges assessment project and trying to figure out the logistics of it. There seems to be, as was the case with the education project, lots and lots of information and material on the computer that is just sitting there unsorted and unused. As I started looking through the files today I realized that a lot of the work I was going to do had already been done and no one seemed to know about it. So that's the job I'm giving myself today, and thank goodness the office is air conditioned.



posted by iz on Monday, November 19, 2007   1 comments
Sunday, November 18, 2007
Safari

Last weekend we went to Tsavo East National Park and stayed at a lodge overlooking a water hole. Loads of animals would just come by like elephants and lions and buffalo. We saw oodles of amazing birds, and ginormous beetles which I I.D.ed as giant dung beetles. I am in love with them, they are so beautiful and shiny and gigantic, and they have furry bellies which are nice and soft but probably covered in poo and mites but I liked picking them up anyway.

On safari we saw a million billion amazing animals like cheetahs and oryx. One of the guys must have a list of species somewhere, I may post them later. Then on the last day we drove slightly off the beaten path and saw a car all decayed and rusted up that was stuck on a muddy swampy bit forever. It was very picturesque, which is why I took a picture. As soon as the shutter clicked, our car got stuck in the mud. We tried everything including elephant dung for traction but were still stuck. After a while Gwili and Tori walked off to look for help, and Orit and Shiv and I stayed behind in the car.

I was sure we'd be there at least overnight and wished I knew more survival skills, and I was also hoping that Tori and Gwili wouldn't get killed by leopards or elephants. But then we were super lucky and a few hours later help came and we got out. Then some time later when we were already out of the park we got stuck in the mud again. And again very very luckily, this happened as a truckload of beefy gents was driving by, so we got immediate help and got out of the mud again.

It was all great fun, and giraffes are awesome.



posted by iz on Sunday, November 18, 2007   0 comments
Thursday, November 8, 2007
Work

Today was a pretty productive day, at least compared to yesterday, when we were supposed to help the kaya people (sacred forest) protect the land from land grabbers, as it seems that there is someone building a house right on the spot where the CT planted loads of trees. But when we got there there was no one there except the "owner" of the plot, who said that the whole kaya had been bought and sold to an insurance company some 30 years ago. Kayas aren't menat to be sold but apparently there are some shady corrupt people in Nairobi with a penchant for selling protected land, and there isn't much that can be done about that.

But today was better. In the morning we went for a Colobus check and we found loads of colobus -- 6 troops, 53 individuals in total. The last troop had 10 colobus and we got quite close to them. I got great pictures, which I will upload if I ever manage to get a decent connection.

In the afternoon we went de-snaring, i.e. going into the bush and removing snares, and we managed to find 15! I managed to spot one by myself for the first time, and ended up finding 3. One was made with string, one with insulated wire, and one with barbed wire. There were others made with rope and telephone cables too. It's a bit of a bitersweet job, because it's satisfying to find so many and remove them, but depressing that there were so many there in the first place, and that they'll just be replaced, and we'll have to go again and again, just hoping to remove them before an animal gets caught in it.

Later on there was a call for a dead colobus and we went to pick it up. It was a little juvenile who had been killed by dogs, and it was such a downer because I kept thinking it could have been one of the colobus that we saw earlier on in the day. But that's what happens, and that's why I'm here I guess. Calls for dead colobus monkeys are usually from electrocution, because here most of the electric wires aren't insulated.

Tomorrow I am going on safari for the weekend, to Tsavo West national park (yay!).

And I guess I'm keeping the blog after all.



Send a smile, make someone laugh, have some fun! Start now!


posted by iz on Thursday, November 08, 2007   0 comments
Monday, October 29, 2007
Pole Pole / Slowly

It's amazing how my determination for keeping a travel blog has just evaporated in the one week and some odd days that I've been here. It seems like too much effort and I don't even know if anyone is reading this anyway. I'm just not interested in analyzing or philosophizing anything, or thinking about the meaning of things, the what the why and the how. I really just feel like either just sitting at the beach or napping. In just a few days I went from being ultra enthusiastic about working and being productive to being some sort of beach bum. I fell right into the rhythm of things. Everything pole pole.

I have actually done some work and chosen some more long-term projects to work on while I'm here, which I've sort of started on. I'm adding more educational resources, especially for younger children, and then I'll start mapping the colobridges and do an assessment of how they're being used by the primates.

Regarding packing, I forgot my sunscreen (oops), USB cable (crap), and birkenstocks. Brought way too many long-sleeve shirts, completely unnecessary for Diani (in a fit of nervousness I ended up stuffing 2 more for a total of 4), but I'm still hoping to get some use out of them. And not enough sarongs and skirts- I'm thinking of buying at least one more sarong, as that's pretty much all I wear here when I'm not working.

I don't think I'll update this as much as I was planning to, unless something really exciting happens. Let's see... today I climbed some trees as part of colobridge maintenance... this week I've seen a bunch of birds, crabs, geckos, snails, hermit crabs, babboons, colobus, sykes, and vervets... have yet to see bush babies and am hoping I will soon... went snorkeling, bought a snorkel mask, and went to a nearby village as part of education outreach. Not many exciting bugs at all here, except for the giant millipedes. Tomorrow I'll have a Swahili lesson (hopefully). It is hot as hell, and I've never meant it this much.

One of these weekends I think I'm going to go and do something really interesting... and then when that happens I'll come and write some more.


posted by iz on Monday, October 29, 2007   3 comments
Saturday, October 20, 2007
Hazy first days

I arrived last night, I think. It was pretty late when I got here at the Trust, but somehow still managed to get taken out to some bar on the beach. Lots of stars in the sky. But it was only today that I could see how nice the beach really is. Crystalline turquoise. I'm going to try to find a cheap snorkel kit somewhere, and get PADI certification too. I've seen a colobus or two, too. And some sort of miniature antelope, a giant rat thing, and some interesting birds. And a crazy-looking spider and a bunch of giant millipedes everywhere. and there is a kitten who gave me cat hickies on my arm. As for people, not so many volunteers here, but it's good that way.

I must sound retarded right now. I'm tired and jet lagged. Confused and disoriented. I haven't had my briefing yet either, because it's the weekend, so until Monday I will be not-quite-knowing what's going on. And today was a national holiday too. But there seems to be issues with the new management. I'm hoping it doesn't turn all dramarama.

Tomorrow there's supposed to be a Goat Derby that we're all going to. Hmm yes.

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posted by iz on Saturday, October 20, 2007   2 comments
Wednesday, October 17, 2007
Photos of Brazil are up


tortoise portrait
Originally uploaded by IzzyNomad

I made a set for this trip on Flickr here.

Regarding malaria prophylaxis, I gave up on Lariam and invested some serious cash on Malarone. I can't imagine what my face looked like when the pharma guy told me the price, since I came out looking SO shocked and surprised in my passport photos after finding out how much they would cost, which was still about 10 times less than the Malarone.

I also took the cholera vaccine, with side effects. It seems like I am, in general, just getting side effects from everything I take. Any side effects, all side effects. I am side effect-prone. And I don't even read labels anymore. Damn you, human body!

This is my last entry before leaving for Mombasa tomorrow. I'll write when I can. Bye!

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posted by iz on Wednesday, October 17, 2007   2 comments
Wednesday, October 10, 2007
What about Brazil?

I forgot about Brazil.

I was so concerned with everything else that I didn't even think about my trip here. I didn't think about packing, about what I'd do when I got here, who would I see, where would I go, in what order. I just didn't think. And now I'm here, I only have a few days left, and despite all this time I've had to think about Brazil, I still don't know what to think.

I have a love/hate relationship with the country. I'm like Dr. Daruwalla in John Irving's A Son of the Circus, who keeps going back to India. I don't have circus midgets to come back to, but I do feel like when I'm here I don't know who I am. I'm not really Brazilian, with that obsessive extraversion, that cunning, that intolerance, that pride and arrogance, that mega frantic yet snail-slow pace of things. But I'm not really Canadian either. I'm not anything, and I don't even know what to say when people ask me where I'm living now. I usually say nowhere, that I'm in between places, that I don't quite know when I'll be back in Canada.

I am the epitome of lost.

But all that is too philosophical. Moving on to more concrete topics, about which there exists no doubt:

1) Overnight flights are crap. Especially when you're sitting on the last row where the seats don't lean back.

2) Boarding a plane containing an entire winning soccer team is crap.

3) No matter how crap and exotic your favourite childhood foods were, you will always love them.

4) Family is wonderfully weird and complicated.

And then there's that Africa trip date approaching. I've started taking Lariam and I'm having crap side effects. The crazy dreams are cool, but the nausea and crippling anxiety are really not cool at all. I may drop some dough on Malarone, or just say fuck it all to malaria prophylaxis. What do you think?




posted by iz on Wednesday, October 10, 2007   3 comments
Friday, September 21, 2007
Jane Goodall and other things


Jane Goodall holds Mr. H
Originally uploaded by IzzyNomad

I've been meaning to write an entry about seeing Jane Goodall speak for a while. I saw her last Saturday, for her talk "Gombe and beyond", and she was her usual amazing self. It was the second time that I saw her at Con Hall in Toronto, but no less inspiring -- I can't think of another word to describe her. Especially because her talk related so much to my Africa trip, I left very much wanting to DO stuff, participate, get involved. I even got a little teary-eyed. How terribly soppy.

But that didn't last very long... This week was nerve-racking and I feel anything but inspired. After watching an episode of Big Love I feel like I'm "married" to my three tasks right now and I'm not giving any of them enough attention. I should be taking care of the Africa trip arrangements, doing all the paperwork for Steve to come to Canada, and applying for grad school. Instead I'm reacting like a metaphorical ostrich. Grad school is what I'm most worried about at the moment, because I only have a week left in Canada and I don't have a supervisor yet, which means I can't complete my application. The more I get into it the more I realize I shouldn't have left this for so late. I could have started this earlier and bought myself an extra couple of weeks. I don't know how much good that would have done, but in any case, I'm pressed for time now (though I guess I always knew I would be, because I only ever had 6 weeks to do all this). I need more time, need more time.

Jane Goodall began her PhD without ever having been to university, and I can't even find a supervisor.

In other news, I went back for my Hep B shot no. 2 this morning. It may be some sort of placebo effect, but I do feel quite confused right now. I also got the promised handout about zoonoses (because animals carry diseases and I should be very careful!), and for malaria a prescription for Lariam, after my insistence. I think I made a pretty good case against Doxycycline.

Lariam is such a stupid name. It's like naming a flu medication "Luf", or "Erpesh" for a herpes cream. The doc had to make sure that my mental health was ok first (um sure), since Lariam can make people go crazy, among other mental symptoms like nightmares.

That means I will, of course, have nightmares. About contracting monkeypox, or simian herpes. Thanks for that handout, doc!

So, Chris is in Bangkok right now! He is supposed to have a travel blog but hasn't sent me the link yet, the bastard. Now that he's suddenly become a rich photographer I only hear news from him through his models...

And that's all I have to say.



posted by iz on Friday, September 21, 2007   0 comments
Monday, September 10, 2007
Packing

I've been spending a lot of time just thinking about what to pack for this trip. I think for ages I've been in an eternal quest to pack the perfect pack, yet it always seems to elude me. The perfect pack has everything that you need and nothing you don't need, in 10-12 kg for 3-14 days, and 15-20 kg for 3 weeks - 6 months. Of course you learn and improve your packing skills the more you travel, but I'm embarrassed to say that my learning has been limited to what to take, and no amount of traveling has ever taught me what NOT to take. The more I travel, the more I want to pack. More, more, more.

For this trip I have made it my personal quest to gather experiences and compile a list of what not to take. The first one is, of course, jeans. At first I couldn't fathom traveling without jeans - it's usually the first thing in my pack list wherever I travel; but the truth is, they are bulky, heavy, never dry in the tropics, and pretty much impossible to put on without baby powder when it's humid. A big thank you to Chris for beating this idea out of me, I will be eternally grateful.

Other things I've decided not to take include: hiking boots (people never end up wearing them anyway - they are too hot, too bulky, too heavy - much better to take wellies instead), solid shampoo bar (even though it is a weight and space saver, it is just impossible to rub a bar of soap on your head and wash your scalp properly if you have any hair at all), and Nalgene water bottles (sure they're great, but they are bulky as hell, and hard so can't be squished).

Which brings me to the topic of what I will pack, because there are things that make your life so much easier when you travel that you have to bring them with you.

1- Water hydration system.
Why: it carries more water than bottles, is lighter than Nalgene bottles, and PACKS FLAT when empty. Fucking genius.

2- The Divacup.
Why: This was a lifesaver when I went to Ecuador. It is environmentally friendly, does not cause TSS, you only have to change it every 12h, and is absolutely perfect for long stays at very remote places or places where they don't sell tampons for religious reasons. Can be the Divacup, the Keeper, or the Mooncup in the UK.

3- Waterproof camera case.
Why: How amazing is that, not worrying about taking your camera on a boat, or to the beach, or even scuba diving (woo!). Not having to buy disposable waterproof cameras and hold old to the damn things until you can get home and process them. It's big, it's heavy, it's bulky, and I don't care. It's just purely awesome.


4- Extended wear contact lenses.
Why: Not worrying about your eyes when camping. Not having to take a 6-month supply of contact lens solution because whatever country you're going to doesn't sell it. Not worrying about being attacked at night and not being able to see. WoooOOOOooo!

5- A sturdy, moulded-cup sports bra.
Why: This is one of the things I had to actually buy on my last big trip. I had only bought "flat" sports bras, which offer minimal support, far below what you need for bus & boat rides, which WILL BE bumpier than you think, and also horseback riding, which I never imagined I would have done. I like my Champion bra but I hear Nike bras are good too.

6- The SheWee
.
Why: Peeing in the bushes is no easy feat for women. The SheWee Changed my life.




So you see. Lots of things I'm taking, not a lot of things that I'm not taking. I'm not sure how much more I can reduce my packing list, but in case anyone is wondering, here it is. Bear in mind I'll be away for 6 months.

CLOTHES
  • 2 pairs quickdry cargo pants
  • 2 pairs midcalf skirts (great for heat and Islamic countries)
  • 1 pair bermuda shorts
  • 1 pair capris
  • 1 fleece hoodie
  • 1 heavy duty rain jacket
  • 3 long sleeve shirts for work & sun
  • 4 t-shirts
  • 4 tank tops
  • 2 multi-purpose sarongs (can be used as a head cover, arms cover, beach wrap, a skirt, to wrap around your pants where pants are inappropriate, and as an impromptu blanket. but yes, I am considering taking just 1)
  • 2 bikini/swimsuit (yes, I am considering taking just 1)
  • 1 wide-brim hat and 1 baseball cap. Yes, one of them. Maybe.
  • oodles of bandanas. Maybe a bit less than oodles.
  • a reasonable amount of underwear/sleepwear/socks

SHOES
  • 1 pair rubber boots/wellies
  • 1 pair trail runners
  • 1 pair birkenstocks
  • 1 pair rubber flip flops

STUFF
  • 1 mosquito net
  • 1 flashlight/torch
  • 1 sleeping bag
  • 1 pair binoculars
  • 1 pair swim goggles
  • 1 inflatable neck pillow
  • 1 padlock
  • 1 camera & waterproof case
  • toiletries, enough for ~2 months
  • meds incl. 1st aid, water purification tablets, malaria meds, multivitamins, $30 worth of Imodium, and $20 worth of Sea Legs. I should be safe.
  • lots of suncreen
  • 1 travel towel
  • 1 travel-size Rummi & pack of cards
  • 2 lonely planet books
  • recharger & batteries
  • mini mp3 player
  • wristwatch with alarm
  • oodles of 30% DEET spray
  • water hydration system
  • shewee & other girly stuff
  • 1 pocket knife/ fork & spoon toolkit
  • notebook/planner
  • daypack
  • 1 whistle
  • BEAR SPRAY (If Andrew hooks me up like he said he would!)
  • all this inside the 60L backpack, of course
And that's all, if I'm not forgetting anything. I guess after I get back I'll need to report which of all this stuff was really useless. And try to learn from my mistakes. Again.


posted by iz on Monday, September 10, 2007   1 comments
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